Focke-Wulf
Fw 190 Würger
Specs:

Size: 450-500 Brushless
Weight: Aprox 28Oz
Span: ~42-1/4 Inches
Prop: 1060-1170EP GWS
Material: FFF/Depron and EPS
Skill: Moderate

Contact Info:

Questions or Comments?
erik@foamcasualty.com
May 2010: Starting May 1st my BF-109E plans are up for grabs! You will find them to be a highly detailed layout of everything you need to build a 1/7 scale BF-109 Emil.
April 2010: Kits will be available soon! If you are interested, please email me at erik@foamcasualty.com

German Design

The Fw 190 A-8 entered production in February 1944. The A-8 was the most numerous of the Fw 190 A's, with over 6,550 A-8 airframes produced. Changes introContainerduced with the Fw 190 A-8 included the GM 1 nitrous oxide erhöhte notleistung emergency boost system to the fighter variant of the Fw 190 A (a similar system had been fitted to some earlier Jabo variants of the 190 A) raising power to 1,980 PS (1,953 hp, 1,456 kW) for a short time.

Local Construction

This model was done in Sketchup, designed to be built quickly without too many details. Still you should find it at about an 8 or 9 in terms of scale. Idealy you will need the following:

  • FFF
  • EPS 1-1/2 inches
  • Tin or Aluminum
    (For Templates)
  • A hot wire cutter
  • A canopy
    (or some carving skills)
  • A low temp hotglue gun
    (and some glue)
  • A heatgun or hairdrier

FW190A8 with Sketchup

fw190

Build Logs

There are no build logs as of now.

Building this Model

  • Download and install Google's Sketchup
  • Download, unzip, and print out from this file.
  • Transfer the rudder stabilizer onto FFF.
  • Transfer the fuselage parts onto FFF, each part is 1/2 of the section it represents. Flip the pattern and line up the red colored bottom to continue the section.
  • Transfer the spinner (x2) and airfoil patterns onto tin or aluminum.
  • Make sure the edges of the metal templates are smooth enough not to catch a finger nail, take care not to cut yourself. I sand down the edges with some 300 grit sand paper
  • Cut up some stock EPS to match the sizes of the wing and spinner.
  • Attach the airfoil patterns to the ends of your EPS stock
    Hotwire out the wing.
    (It's easiest with two people, start outside of the template and finish outside the template. Go slow and steady. Sometimes it helps to number the inside so both people know where the other is on the cut, good communication is key).
  • Reverse the template to cut the other wing
    It's important your wings match in shape or you will have a hard time trimming and it may roll funny. Don't be afraid to throw out a bad wing. It happens all the time.
  • Cut the nose spinner by mounting each template on two sides of a piece of wood to form a "U" Drill a hole in the middle of your U and in the block that will be the nose.
    Hot wire around the nose templates and then spin the U.
  • Continue until you have a shaped spinner
  • If you are using the Blue DOW FFF, it is possible to roll the foam without adding heat. You will be able to roll the foam away from the covered side. Otherwise use a hairdrier or heatgun to warm and then bend the fuse shapes onto the profiles
    Glue as you bend, low temp hotglue works best
  • Carve up or purchase a canopy
  • Mount hardware, wings, and control surfaces your favorite way
    • Keep the battery as close to the thrust line as possible, or mount directly to the top of the wing.
  • COG is about 1/3 the distance back from the leading edge of the wing, balance upside down.
  • The wing may need to be stiffened.
    The best way for me is to fiber glass the bottom with light weight glass and foam safe resin
    A carbon fiber spar works well, but does not protect the bottom
    A Layer of tape across the bottom works some but is the quickest and may offer some protection.